Note: use an automatic or semi-automatic biner for rappels, to reduce the chance of the rope opening the screw gate. Keep three details in mind, however:. Braking : To brake, bring the two strands parallel to each other — i. The two-handed Munter: With the rope in one hand, form a bight. Pull the strands to form a Munter Hitch. Lock the locker! The one-handed Munter, directly on the anchor: This technique lets the weighted strand sit in the right place and lets you easily turn the Munter into a clove once your partner reaches the anchor.
With the unweighted strand, flip the rope upward to make a loop. Now give this loop a quarter-twist 90 degrees , and clip it through the locker to form your Munter. While you can share a belay device with your partner and each rappel on a single rope strand, this method presents an additional margin for error; it doubles the load on the anchor, requires maintaining weight between partners, and gives less friction during lowering than a traditional double rope rappel Use of the munter hitch is a good option as a backup belay device, and also as a rappel device, should you only have one locking carabiner at your disposal.
The mechanics of a munter hitch: How to belay with a munter hitch: Related : Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing Tips: The Best Way to Belay from Above For these reasons, you may consider using the double carabiner brake rappel approach when you drop your belay device—as it serves as a safe, practical, and efficient method that also avoids unwanted risk and having to deal with a kinking rope.
How to use the double carabiner brake rappel The gear you need: All you need to have amongst you and your partner are, Four carabiners of any type all shapes and gate types will work One locking carabiner or two opposite non-lockers More likely than not, you probably have these items on your harness already. The procedure: Clip your locking carabiner or two non-lockers placed in opposing directions , to the belay loop on your harness.
Clip two non-locking carabiners opposite and opposed to the carabiner s on your belay loop. Make a bight with two ends of the rope, and push it through the two non-locking carabiners. Then, clip two more non-locking carabiners around both sides of the other two carabiners through the bight of the rope. Check that the rope runs over the spine and not the gate component of the carabiners.
A simple video demonstration for creating a double carabiner brake rappel: Together, with noses opposed, these carabiners create a braking mechanism as you rappel. Want more climbing content? Get our awesome climbing newsletter, delivered weekly. Previous Campfire: Climbers Get Closer. Next Climbing in Leavenworth, Washington. About The Author. It is easy to put together but should be a last result.
Mainly if a rappel device is lost, dropped, or damaged. Again, a fireman belay would be great here if you heed my advice to take an experienced partner.
Because the friction is minimal the rappel will run smoother through the device and the hitch. That means a quicker descent. Still, try to maintain a speed that you are comfortable with when descending.
Use your break hand to slow down or speed up based off your skill level. Here is a bonus piece of information. By using the brake hand to pull the rope out will cause greater friction on the Munter Hitch which will break the rappel. This is said to be the best method to brake the Munter Hitch for friction purposes; however, the angle to perform this brake and then go into the descent can feel abnormal or uncomfortable.
Due to the rarity that this hitch may be used I would recommend to break by pulling the rope down. As long as you have a proper backup. A word of caution with using this hitch. It is known to twist the rope which can be dangerous. Do not let this distract you though from learning to tie and use this hitch for those rare occasions.
It is a very important hitch to learn and use when you lack the right gear to descend or are in a state of emergency. It is simple to tie, requires little equipment, and is even used by emergency response teams to lower gear or wounded. The you have it, the Carabiner Munter Hitch. Be sure to practice the technique and seek expert advice in your training. By taking the right steps you will be prepared if or when the need arises and most importantly confident in your safe use of the knot.
This instructional article, the associated tutorials, and videos found on RappellingRocks. It is your responsibility to practice the techniques, receive adequate coaching from experienced professionals, and to follow all safety procedures prior to rappelling.
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